Owning a piece of history, especially vintage garments from the 1940s or earlier is like holding a precious artefact of culture and craftsmanship. These garments not only tell stories from the past but also represent timeless fashion. However, maintaining their beauty requires delicate care and attention. Whether you’ve inherited a vintage dress, found a 1920s flapper gown, or sourced a rare jacket from a vintage shop, here’s some tips on caring for your vintage treasures.

Understanding the Fabric

Garments from the 1940s or earlier are often made from natural fibres like silk, wool, linen, cotton, and rayon. Due to their age, these materials can be fragile, and exposure to light, moisture, and air over time can weaken them and cause irreversible damage.

A garment from our vintage archive with unfortunate moth damage.

Wool: Wool was commonly used in outerwear and suits. Keep wool garments in breathable storage to avoid moth damage, and always brush wool after each wear.

Silk: Vintage silk from this era is particularly fragile and prone to splitting. Avoid hanging silk garments for extended periods as the weight can cause stress on the seams. Store silk flat, padded with acid-free tissue.

Cotton and Linen: These are sturdier but still require careful washing. Avoid harsh detergents and hot water, and opt for gentle handwashing or professional cleaning.

Storage

Proper storage is crucial for preserving vintage pieces. Poor storage conditions can lead to fading, tears, and pest damage.

• Keep away from direct sunlight as this can fade and weaken fabrics, so store your garments in a dark or dimly lit place

• Control humidity: Too much moisture can lead to mould, while too little can dry out delicate fibres.

• Use padded hangers or lay garments flat: Padded hangers provide cushion for delicate items and prevent distortion - absolutely no wire hangers!
  
  

• Stretchable fabrics and heavily embellished should not be hung as they can be easily distorted in shape from hanging - instead, store them in a garment box with acid-free tissue paper. Acid-free tissue paper can also be used to stuff sleeves or handbags to help them maintain their shape.

• Breathable storage bags: Store garments in breathable cotton, linen, or muslin garment bags. Avoid plastic garment bags (including plastic bags from the dry cleaners) as they trap moisture which can lead to mildew and fabric degradation.
  
  

• Moth traps: Pop lavender sachets or mothballs in your wardrobe to deter moths. If you’re concerned moths may have infiltrated the fabric of your vintage garment, put your garment in a plastic bag and put it in the freezer for at least 72 hours. If you’ve recently purchased a new vintage garment, it may be an idea to also put it in the freezer as a precaution against potential moth damage to the rest of your collection.

• Underarm guards: a location that understandably is at risk of damage from sweat and deodorant. Consider adding underarm guards or an undershirt to avoid any potential damage.

• Wear a slip: if you’re wearing your vintage garment, consider wearing a slip underneath it. This will reduce your need to clean it and avoid any staining from your body.

Cleaning Vintage Garments

Washing vintage garments is tricky, as conventional washing methods can cause irreversible damage. Always check if the garment has any washing instructions on an inside tag for recommendations, but bear in mind these may still be inaccurate as our modern washing technology is different to the past.

Label from a 1940s original. Often the manufactures label inside without any indication to fabric contents or wash-care labels, but many original garments from the time won't have any labels at all. 

If you're collecting 1940s originals you may not have any labels at all sewn inside the garment as the majority of them would have been hand made. 

• Spot clean when possible: For small stains, gently dab the affected area with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Always test in an inconspicuous area first for any colour bleeding or reactions to your cleaning solution. If the whole garment needs cleaning and you feel comfortable doing this at home use a gentle detergent and cool/lukewarm water and avoid wringing the fabric too roughly.

• Avoid machine washing: Many vintage fabrics are too delicate for machine washing. Hand wash with cold water and gentle detergent, or, if unsure, consult, a professional cleaner experienced in vintage textiles.

• Air dry: Lay garments flat on a clean, dry surface away from direct sunlight to air dry. Avoid wringing out or hanging wet garments, as this can stretch or tear the fabric.

• Dry cleaning: If you decide to leave your garments in the care of a professional, do some research beforehand to ensure they can properly clean your garment - a dry cleaner who specialises in vintage fabric, whilst more costly, would give the best results. Most dry cleaners will use one main cleaning solvent which may damage. Don’t hesitate to ask them what cleaning products they use and their cleaning process so you’re 100% comfortable with giving them your vintage treasures.
  
• Steaming: An excellent way to combat wrinkles and creases and is less harsh on fabrics than using an iron. For best results, use distilled water.
  Fabrics such as silk, velvet, leather, and metallic embellishments should be avoided when steaming and ironing.
  
• Deodourising: If your garment has an unpleasant odour, fill a clean spray bottle with 90% water and 10% distilled vinegar (or one part vodka and three parts lukewarm water). Mist the solution over the garment and let it air out.

Professional Restoration and Repairs

If a vintage garment has significant damage - whether from holes, loose seams, or missing buttons - it’s best to leave the repairs to a professional tailor or conservator who specialises in vintage or antique clothing. They can match period-appropriate materials and techniques to ensure the integrity of the garment is maintained.

• Before buying a new vintage garment check for any damage to see if something is repairable. Touch the fabric, see if there are any loose threads, and hold it up to the light to look for any structural damage to the fabric. Check the buttons too - if the stitching is loose you may lose a button, and trying to source a replacement may be impossible.

• Avoid DIY repairs for delicate pieces if you aren’t confident in repairing yourself. Sewing machines can be too harsh on delicate, old fabrics, causing more damage. Opt for hand stitching by a professional.

• Use period-appropriate materials: When repairing, ensure buttons, zippers, and threads match the era of the garment for an authentic restoration.

Handle With Care

Every time you wear or handle a vintage garment, it experiences some level of wear. Try to minimize how often you wear delicate pieces, especially those made from fragile materials like silk or chiffon.

• Wash your hands before handling garments: Skin oils can damage vintage fabrics. If extremely delicate, wear cotton gloves if possible.

Seek Expert Advice

For particularly rare or valuable pieces, it’s worth consulting with a textile conservator for expert advice on long-term preservation. Museums often use these professionals to preserve historical garments, and their expertise can be invaluable for pieces with historical or sentimental value.

Caring for vintage garments from the 1940s and earlier is both an art and a science. By understanding the specific needs of the fabrics, using proper storage techniques, and handling them with care, you can ensure that these timeless pieces of fashion history remain beautiful for years to come. Whether you’re preserving them for future generations or wearing them for special occasions, the effort you put into their care will protect their legacy and charm.